After the Friday Party I woke up at 10 o’clock the following day after short 4 hours of sleeping.
After waking up I slowly moved my self to the kitchen for making the coffee and even slower to the central garden to lay down on the warm sun that was shining on yesterday’s saturday morning.
After the deep soul regeneration session I woke up totally renewed. The minute I opened my eyes I remembered I had an appointment with my friend Joao at the Custom Glass Surf Repiar. I call him and told him that I am on my way. I really needed my short board today as there was a 3 meter swell hitting directly on the beach of Baleal and there were only slight offshore breezes forecasted for the afternoon. Adn with the low to high mid-tide was coming at 3 pm.
As I moved to the van, to pick up the board . . . The van wouldn’t start – It had no gas. And I was in such a hurry to pick up the board and go surfing that I was trying starting it so many time, that the battery died aswell. Good move 😉
I was lucky that the Housekeeper of Surf School Tribu, Damjan was just going to the city, so he could bring me the diesel for the van and in the meantime the battery was charging and was ready to start when the diesel arrived.
I went to the shaper as fast as I could, pick up my nicely repaired surf board and hang out a bit with some surfer from South Africa, who were also picking up the repaired board of one of the guys. They were just looking for a hostel, so I told them about my friends Pedro hostel in the center of two major surf spots of Peniche, called Martin’s Lodge.
Was nice meeting all of them, but I was insanely anxious to get to the waves massive waves.
I’ve got in the water as soon as I got to the beach in the rip current as the foams were coming really strongly to the beach. Was truly nice to be lying on the Semente short-board again. And I was pround of my decission to make som duck dive only sessions in the previous week, so my dives were deep and effective to get relatively swiftly to the line-up.
As I got there I saw the first opportunity to ride the big wave. I turned around and with almost no paddeling I was on the wave. It was a massive drop! For sure more that 2,5 meteres and for sure the deepest I ever dropped ever. I had to use my hand to slow down while making the bottom turn to stay on the wall. Was an amazing feeling to be sliding on this massive wall. I made the cut back and another bottom turn and than the wave closed-out completely. I managed to get away from the massive close out and ride a on the white-water. I soon threw my self into the foam to get back to line-up as soon as possible, but the strong foam really hit me hard. I got back to the line up quite switly.But than some really huge set was coming in. We all paddled like crazy to the outside. But none of us made it before the massive, for sure more than 3 meter wave broke. I tried to do the deepest duck dive I ever made, I think but still the white water hit me strongly. It puched the tail of the board on the inside of my thy. It still hurts like hell, but at that moment the focus was on get out of the breaking zone NOW.
We managed to get out and there was a break between sets. Was time to refocus as soon another set was coming in. I paddeled on the first promissing wave and got it. The drop was insane! The hole below my surfboard was unimaginable. I managed to stand up and make a left wave (my backhand side). I managed to do the bottom turn and get on the wall, but it was closing out again, so I turned my board shaprly to get out of the way. I managed, luckily as after i threw my self into the white water again it was an insane washing machine. Like even after the foam passed by, The water was so wild that my board stayed under water for 10 seconds and I really struggled to stay on the surface. Respectful power of the Ocean.After this wave, the big set never ended. I really struggled to get out. And I kind of managed. I took a few deep breaths, but after 3 minutes or so, some really huge wave bombs appeared on the horizon. We all paddled out like crazy and didn’t manage again. When the massive wave borke infront of me I just dropped my board and swimm as deep underwater as I could. When the white water passed over me it went night-like dark, the water was shaking and you could hear thundering smashing sounds above you. The next second I felt a strong pull on my leash as the wave got the board, it pulled me back a lot.
At that point I knew I have to out of this harsh, dangerous conditions. I was deeply afraid at that time. How to get out of this? After 3 more dives like the one before, I got more and more afraid. I decided to ride on the white water out. The whitewater of the wave that broke some 10 meters behind me, didn’t pushed me to the shore but to the bottom of the Baleal Beach. It was the craziest 10 seconds of my life. Still the white water pushed me closer to the shore. That way I was able to ride the next broken wave white water to the shore. In the white water line in saw another surfer from the line-up riding the board on the stomach to escape the massive wave. As we got out, we shake hands for bravery.At the beach I just sat down on the sand and amazed watched the Ocean and the massive waves of today. I was deeply shocked by the Ocean Powers. I thanked the Ocean for this opportunity to surf the biggest waves of ever. I was dreaming this two the whole night long . . . really amazing feeling, memory, dream and the moment. I did some deeps soul meditation after this session on the beach and the feeling of connection with the great Ocean was never greater than in that moment on the beach. I’ve had the ticket to the party festival for that day, but I decided not to spoil this great feeling and get some good night sleep for the next day and more waves.
The Sunday session was fun, as there was heavy rain and strong cross-shore wind in the afternoon at Brunos bar. As only the most deep soul surfers were in the water. The waves were quite big, up to 2 meters, but after yesterday, it felt like a piece of cake. I’ve got some good waves, but after 2 hours it got to cold to be in the water and stay without a clod for the waving days to follow.
Amazing weekend for surfing, party, people, growth and deep soul reconnection.
It’s all what surfing means to me.