After the duck dive session on Thursday, there was a change on the horizon. Kaja was leaving home, as her month long surf trip has ended. We said good-bye on the beach, surfers style like. I only know this girl for a week or so, but really was pleasantly relaxing spending time with her, meeting in Peniche. And as she left the kind of feeling of meeting again soon some random place again when she left. Cool stuff 😉
And than I took off the beach to pick up my sister, who was just arriving on that day. I was happy to see my sister here in Portugal. But on the other hand there was a kind of tight feeling of lessened freedom, as she will be my guest in the van for 3 weeks. Still this feeling was short in duration, as we went to my favourite spot and enjoy the amazing sunset, that brought the changes to the life in Peniche. Luckily the changes were not just on the land, but on the Ocean as well. The forecasts for Friday, Saturday, Sunday, Monday and Tueseday was really nice. Off-shore winds all of those days on Baleal Beach, and steady swell, that was getting stronger every one of those days, peaking on Monday at 2 meter breaking waves.
These last days were truly the days when all the hard work, paddling on the lakes and rivers of Slovenia and duck dive sessions on messy onshore waves, paied off in the most amazingly rewarding surf sessions and marvellous waves.
But the pleasure was not for free . . . after 10 days in the water in a row, each day more than 4 hours and these last days more than 6 hours, and 3 drinking nights out in between did put the energy levels in my body to low levels overall.
I damaged 2 of my surf-boards. One, when I dropped a wave to one long-boarder and the other by hitting it with my foot. The foot hurts a lot, but the fact that both of my short-boards are ready to visit my friends at Custom Glass Surf repair hurts me most.
But all in all it was all worth it all. Yesterday I’ve got the best two waves I have ever rode in my life. One really nice, long and pleasurable right hand wave ( I ride gooffy) and one even better, longer and most satisfying left wave. There is no feeling comparing to riding a big fast wave . . .
That’s what it was all about and for. And it’s time to improve this feeling to new highs . . .
But now surely is time to rest my body and reset my mind.
Tomorrow follows a deep sleeping session and the visit of the Rip Curl Pro 2012 to learn and enjoy from the best.