After the whole week of not being able to surf good waves, the ending was truly perfect surfing experience. This whole week I was only able to surf 2 times, as it was rainy, windy, messy waves and cold weather. I only did it 2 times at Bruno’s Place at the Baleal Beach in Peniche, but there was about a hundred surfers beside me also catching waves.
And than on Saturday we checked the waves with Fabio, the Italian surfer and for Sunday, it was a Sun day and good waves incoming. We decided to make the first light morning session.
On Sunday 8 am, we were already on the beach. It was low tide and the conditions were not at all perfect, but we went in anyway, hungry for some wave.
I’ve made 4 surfing sessions in the whole day, spending at least 8 hours in between the 2,5 meter breaking waves. The Sunset session in was the highlight of the yesterday. I am quite sure I drove on my biggest wave . . . The drop into the wave in the start was unforgeable. And with the short-board I was able to make some really sharp bottom turns and 2 cut-backs! Was the most amazing and satisfying surfing experience of ever.
And after having dinner at the Tribu Surf House, I was totally destroyed, physically I barely took the shower and crawled into my van. My friend Diego and Andrea joined me for watching an old school surfing movie, Big Wednesday . . . trully nice movie, but my eyes got too heavy to see it to the end . . . moreover, there were memory flashes of the greatest wave of my life flashing before my eyes . . . and continued in my mind eye all trough the night.
And now, after the chill down, resting morning, while I’ve done everything needed for my company and the other work stuff . . . I am ready to stretch my body, with the help of the waving Ocean.
- June 20: International day of surfing – always do what feels right!(deepsoulsurfer.com)
- Fab Read: Surf Girl Roxy (fabsugar.com)
- How To Learn To Surf (essentialtravel.co.uk)