These days of my surf trip have really been amazing. I was able to get some waves every day for the last 20 days in a row. But the last 4 days, from Thursday on, a massive 2+ meter swell has been hitting the cost of Portugal. In these days I was really happy about my decission to be training paddleing, positioning and standing on my new 6.2, 18 3/4, 2 5/16 shortboard. It was quite a challange, comming from 7.0 , 21 1/2, 2 1/2 mini-malibu. But all the week’s effort paid off when the 3 meter + waves started breaking on Baleal beach here in Portugal. And with the swell also came the offshore winds and the waves were really breaking nicely… I was in the watter every day all day, just putting my whole heart in these perfect waves.
Surfed out of my body – the mind wanted mooooore
By the end of the third session on this day I was barely making a stand up, but the stoke was just to powerfull to get out of the watter. And than soon the stand up was not possible any more…
I went out of the ocean and barely walked to the Surf Club Tribu base on the beach. And after that I just fell on the ground and stayed there for 15 minutes to be able to drink some watter and get out of the wetsuite.
We have had some really good fun on the beach before heading to the base house.
Before dinner I treated my body with a nice relaxing surf massage by Jana the surfing masuse. It was really funny, as we were talking about surfing in our home countries, I am from waveless country of Slovenia and she is from a country with the same condition; Germany. And she was saying, how the german surfers are compaining over the English Islands as the block the incomming swell to Denmark. And the joke about how they should remove those islands. And I said: ” You know, maybe Adolf was a surfer, he was bombing those Islands all the time 😉 We laughed about it and before I even finished laughing I thougt it might be offending to some German as well as the British people. So I apologize to everyone who might find this unapropriate… but still we had a great time imagining Adolf on a surfboard… probably, if that would’ve been so, that person would not have been able to produce such things; The ocean trully changes people…
After the massage I felt my back totaly relaxed and the relaxation spread over the whole body after dinner. And with the pleasant memories of the waves of the past days it was easily to fall sweet asleap and dream of surfing